Artist Claims Met's "Costume Art" Exhibit Features Copy of Her Hair Dress Design
A recent controversy has emerged surrounding the Metropolitan Museum of Art's "Costume Art" exhibition. London-based artist Anouska Samms alleges that a garment displayed, titled Corpus Nervina 0.0, is a reproduction of her original work, created in collaboration with fashion designer Yoav Hadari, without proper attribution or her consent. This dispute has ignited discussions about intellectual property rights within the art and fashion worlds, particularly concerning the recognition and compensation of artists whose designs are adapted or recreated. Samms has publicly called upon the Met, its curator Andrew Bolton, and acquisition funders to uphold their legal and moral obligations in acknowledging her contribution to the design.
Artist Alleges Design Infringement at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
In May 2026, a significant art controversy unfolded as London-based sculptor, textile designer, and filmmaker Anouska Samms publicly accused Andrew Bolton, the esteemed curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute, of displaying a "counterfeit" of her artistic creation. The alleged infringement centers on a garment named Corpus Nervina 0.0, featured prominently in the Met's recently inaugurated "Costume Art" exhibition.
Samms's allegations, initially shared through a series of widely circulated Instagram posts beginning May 11, contend that Corpus Nervina 0.0 is directly inspired by her 2023 collaborative piece, Nervina. This original work was developed alongside Yoav Hadari for his fashion label, Psycheangelic. Samms detailed how her collaboration with Hadari began during a studio residency at the Alexander McQueen Sarabande Foundation, where she intricately hand-wove several items, including the distinctive Nervina hair dress, for Hadari's 2023 Autumn/Winter collection.
The creative partnership and the unique nature of Samms's work were acknowledged by Hadari himself in a 2023 interview with Flanelle Magazine, where he praised her distinct hair-weaving technique and underscored the importance of the "Hair Dress" in his collection. The plot thickened in 2025 when the Metropolitan Museum of Art reportedly expressed interest in acquiring the original Nervina hair dress for its upcoming Costume Institute exhibition. However, according to Samms's lawyer, Jon Sharples, a commercial intellectual property and art specialist, discussions shifted towards a remake after Hadari claimed the original piece had suffered water damage. This agreement eventually stalled by the end of 2025.
Subsequently, Met curator Andrew Bolton informed Samms via email that the museum would not be acquiring the hair dress, citing reasoning unrelated to the institution, allegedly communicated by a redacted party. Sharples later revealed that Hadari, now operating under Y H Studios in New York City, then offered two of his own designs to the Met.
Upon the opening of "Costume Art," Samms was shocked to discover her design featured in the exhibition through an Instagram post from the Sarabande Foundation. The accompanying wall label for Corpus Nervina 0.0 credited only Hadari as the creator, identifying it as a 2025 edition of the original 2023 design. This omission deeply troubled Samms, who recounted her disbelief at seeing her former collaborator standing next to the piece at the exhibition's gala opening.
A critical element of Samms's claim rests on an October 2023 contract between her and Hadari, which explicitly stipulated Samms as "the sole owner of the intellectual property of the fabric" – the hair-based textile – with a one-year license for its use. Ironically, the Met's wall text clarifies that Samms's specific textile was not utilized in Corpus Nervina 0.0, which instead features "white silk organza hand-embroidered with black and white polyester and cotton tweedyarns, and white silk thread."
Hadari, in an Instagram post, asserted that Corpus Nervina 0.0 was merely "inspired by" his collaboration with Samms. When contacted for comment, Hadari and Y H Studios maintained that Samms's ownership of the textile fabric does "not extend to the design, name, concept, construction, or creative direction of the Nervina Hair Dress, which were entirely Mr. Hadari’s." They further emphasized that Samms's specific textile or any of its components were not included in Nervina Corpus 0.0. The Metropolitan Museum of Art has declined to comment on the matter, expressing respect for the artists and their ongoing dispute, suggesting they await a resolution between the parties before taking further action.
Samms clarified her intent, stating she is not aiming to "cancel her collaborator" but rather to hold "The Met, Andrew Bolton OBE, and the acquisition funders to meet their legal and moral responsibilities." Her legal counsel articulated her primary desire: for Anouska to be placed in the position she would have occupied if the original acquisition had proceeded, which includes recognition as the co-creator of the original work and fair compensation for her efforts in creating a faithful remake that honors their initial collaboration. This situation highlights the complex challenges artists face in protecting their intellectual property and ensuring appropriate recognition for their creative contributions, especially when their work enters the public sphere through prestigious institutions.