Doshi Levien's 'Dori' Collection: A Blend of Indian Heritage and Modern Design for Hay

The 'Dori' collection, conceived by the visionary duo Nipa Doshi and Jonathan Levien for Hay, epitomizes a compelling synergy between bold artistic expression and refined subtlety. Operating from their London-based studio established in 2000, Doshi Levien is celebrated for their distinctive ability to interweave rich cultural narratives with groundbreaking technical solutions. Nipa Doshi's nuanced aesthetic, deeply rooted in her heritage, beautifully complements Jonathan Levien's precise industrial design approach, forging a creative partnership that yields unique and innovative products.

This latest textile range, christened 'Dori'—a Hindi term signifying 'thread'—offers a sophisticated interplay of tactile qualities and chromatic variations. The collection comprises a quilted bedspread, a cushion, and an organic cotton cushion cover, each distinguished by contrasting grid-patterned stitching and reversible color schemes. These elements are designed to seamlessly coordinate with Doshi Levien's earlier successful ventures for Hay, such as the 2021 'Quilton' sofa—a modular 'quilted landscape system' that marked their debut with the brand—and their 'Rabari' rug series for Nanimarquina.

For Nipa Doshi, this collaboration represents a meaningful opportunity to infuse Hay's product line with a distinct 'textile culture, deeply anchored in Indian traditions of cotton, embroidery, and everyday utility.' The genesis of the 'Dori' collection traces back to a serendipitous discovery made by Mette Hay, co-founder and creative director of accessories at Hay, during a visit to Doshi Levien's London studio. Mette Hay was captivated by the intricate reverse side of a textile sample, sparking the initial concept. Doshi recounts that this pivotal sample was a straightforward two-tone checkered cotton fabric, featuring a kantha or kabira stitch—a traditional running, hand-embroidered technique historically employed for quilting in various regions of India, including Gujarat, West Bengal, and Rajasthan. Remarkably, this inspirational fabric originated from her aunt's workshop in Ahmedabad.

During her studies at the National Institute of Design in Ahmedabad, Doshi immersed herself in this exceptional textile workshop, which also crafted apparel for renowned designers like Issey Miyake and Hermès. It was in this vibrant environment that she cultivated a profound appreciation for Indian textiles and their intricate techniques, alongside a fascination for modern Indian architecture exemplified by luminaries such as B V Doshi, Le Corbusier, and Louis Kahn. While traditional kantha embroidery is a manual art form, the 'Dori' collection leverages industrial machine embroidery to enhance accessibility without sacrificing the essence of craftsmanship. The bright, contrasting grid stitching not only serves as a decorative element but also provides practical guidance for arranging and composing the bedding. Doshi emphasizes that even within industrial production, each piece retains a sense of artisanal care, reflecting intelligence and meticulous attention to detail.

As anticipated from a studio whose 'Kinari' collection for Galerie Kreo earned the 'Best Colour Study' accolade in the Wallpaper* Design Awards 2024, the 'Dori' collection's color palette is central to its allure. Doshi Levien boasts its own dedicated color laboratory, housing an extensive array of 300-400 distinct hues. Nevertheless, they frequently develop bespoke colors for projects such as 'Dori,' whose apparent simplicity belies a rigorous two-year research period. The pieces are offered in three reversible two-tone combinations—midnight blue, maroon, and green—with their color inspirations ranging from Jodhpur miniature paintings and glazed ceramic samples to iconic art pieces like Picasso's 1932 La Lecture (Reading) and Malevich's 1915 Suprematism; Self Portrait in Two Dimensions.

Doshi explains that the design intent was to enable users to alter the aesthetic of the piece simply by flipping it over. Each colorway features fine embroidery executed with two contrasting, bright threads, offering endless possibilities for color exploration in both fabrics and embroidery threads. The designers meticulously developed over 50 combinations for Hay's selection. She notes that they opted for fabric colors with dark, saturated tones on one side and lighter shades on the reverse. The threads, deliberately vibrant, ensure visibility and impact on both the dark and light surfaces, presenting a considerable challenge to harmoniously integrate four colors within each scheme. The 'Dori' collection is a testament to understated, thoughtfully considered details, such as the small label bearing an embroidered signature, which imbues these tactile pieces with a personal touch. Beyond adding warmth, color, and presence to any room, this new collection beautifully celebrates the profound and rewarding ritual of meticulously preparing a bed, embracing the joy of executing a simple task with excellence and care, fostering a sense of accomplishment and serenity.