Iris van Herpen: Weaving Technology and Nature in Fashion
Experience the Fusion of Fashion, Science, and Art: Iris van Herpen's Visionary Designs Unveiled.
The Dawn of 3D Printing in High Fashion
In 2010, merely three years after launching her design house, Iris van Herpen made history by introducing the first 3D-printed garment on the runway. This revolutionary piece, a top inspired by a snake's skeletal form and crafted from ivory-colored 3D-printed polyamide, was a collaborative effort with British architect Daniel Widrig, marking a pivotal moment in fashion's technological evolution.
A Legacy of Innovation and Interdisciplinary Collaboration
Van Herpen, now 41, reflects on this initial foray into 3D printing as a crucial step that propelled her into ongoing collaborations with architects, sculptors, chemists, and even astrophysicists. Her continuous exploration of new materials and techniques is vividly showcased in her retrospective, "Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses." This exhibition, originating in Paris in 2023, has traveled globally before its current installation at the Brooklyn Museum.
Curating Van Herpen's Vision at the Brooklyn Museum
Matthew Yokobosky, senior curator of fashion and material culture at the Brooklyn Museum, alongside curatorial assistant Imani Williford, organized the museum's version of the exhibition. They enriched the display with pieces from the museum's own collections, spanning American, Asian, contemporary, and feminist art, as well as scientific artifacts like coral, fossils, and skeletons. The immersive experience is further enhanced by a soundscape composed by Salvador Breed, van Herpen's partner and musical collaborator.
Bridging Traditional Craftsmanship with Technological Advances
Van Herpen's distinct style is characterized by its blend of traditional sartorial artistry with technological breakthroughs, transforming clothing into a profound commentary on the intricate relationship between science and the natural world. The exhibition, structured around eleven distinct themes, invites visitors to explore van Herpen's wide-ranging interests, from mathematics and astronomy to marine biology and mineralogy.
Showcasing New Creations and Celebrity Endorsements
The Brooklyn Museum's exhibition proudly features several of van Herpen's latest creations. Among them is a striking crimson pleated gown designed for Anne Hathaway's character in the film "Mother Mary," and an algae dress from her 2025 "Sympoiesis" collection. This living garment, developed with biodesigner Chris Bellamy and researchers from the University of Amsterdam, contains 125 million living algae that emit light in response to movement, displayed within a climate-controlled environment.
Nature as a Muse and Collaborator
Van Herpen emphasizes her deep connection to nature, viewing the algae dress as a significant leap from drawing inspiration from nature to actively collaborating with it. Her creations frequently draw parallels between organic structures and human innovation, highlighting the inherent artistry in both.
Iconic Designs and Artistic Collaborations
The exhibition also displays numerous pieces worn by van Herpen's celebrity clientele, including designs for Lady Gaga, Björk's memorable snake dress from the 2012 Roskilde Festival, and Beyoncé's custom "Heliosphere" dress from her 2023 "Renaissance" tour. A highlight is the first iteration of her 2016 "Seijaku" collection's bubble dress, made with 15,000 iridescent glass bubbles, a creation that reflects her fascination with the atomic structure of existence and the convergence of art, science, and philosophy.
Scientific Inspirations and Historical Connections
Throughout the exhibition, scientific texts and specimens underscore van Herpen's inspirations. These include lithographs from Ernst Haeckel’s “Art Forms of Nature,” brain renderings by Nobel laureate Santiago Ramón y Cajal, and ancient fossils. These historical and scientific artifacts are juxtaposed with contemporary art, such as Ren Ri’s honey bee sculpture, reflecting van Herpen's observation of nature's inherent architectural prowess.
Reflecting Nature's Patterns in Wearable Art
Ren Ri’s bee sculpture is displayed alongside van Herpen’s honeycombed Radiography dress from her 2014 "Magnetic Motion" collection, a product of collaboration with Canadian architect Philip Beesley. Another striking exhibit features Asian Fawn Tarantula webs, inspiring dresses like the Argiope Dress from the 2016 "Lucid" collection, which mimics delicate spider silk through 3D-printed polyurethane and hand-sewn silk.
A Universe of Artistic Influences
Van Herpen’s collaborations extend to late artist and former NASA engineer Kim Keever, whose liquid cloud photographs inspired her 2019 "Shift Souls" collection. Rob Wynne’s "Extra Life" glass installation evokes the Milky Way, while a 19th-century Polynesian barkcloth poncho is displayed with designs inspired by plant root systems, such as the Genesis dress made from banana leaves. Opt art by Toni Costa and Mylar sculptures by Tara Donovan further complement van Herpen's illusory and nature-inspired creations, such as the Data Dust Kimono Dress and the Syntopia dress, showcasing the seamless integration of various artistic disciplines into her work.
Exploring the Creative Sanctuary
Fifteen pieces from the museum's permanent collection are integrated into the exhibition. Furthermore, a replica of van Herpen's atelier in the fifth-floor rotunda offers a unique insight into her creative process. Videos detailing the construction of her garments are projected onto large fabric spools, illustrating the meticulous craftsmanship involved. Yokobosky recounts van Herpen's active involvement in the curation, highlighting the "beautiful moments of synergy" between the museum's collection and her artistic vision. The exhibition runs until December 6th.