Mae Engelgeer's 'Utsuroi Hymn': A Textile Journey in Kyoto
Where Tradition Meets Modernity: A Harmony of Textiles and Time
The Essence of 'Utsuroi Hymn': A Fusion of Cultures
The term 'Utsuroi' encapsulates the delicate evolution of time, seasons, and emotions. This profound concept forms the bedrock of 'Utsuroi Hymn,' a groundbreaking exhibition resulting from a unique partnership between Kyoto's venerable Ryosokuin Zen temple and Mae Engelgeer, a Dutch textile visionary celebrated for her refined palettes and poetic designs.
Engelgeer's Japanese Journey: A Decade of Inspiration
This exhibition marks another significant milestone in Engelgeer's deepening relationship with Japan. Having moved from Amsterdam to Kyoto in 2023, she has immersed herself in the rich tapestry of Japanese craftsmanship, collaborating with esteemed local artisans. Her work with the kimono textile powerhouse Hosoo and furniture maker Karimoku exemplifies her commitment to integrating her European sensibility with Japanese expertise.
Unveiling Ancient Treasures: The Temple's Textile Archive
Toryo Ito, the forward-thinking deputy head priest of Ryosokuin, granted Engelgeer unparalleled access to the temple's extensive textile archive. This treasure trove, housing monk robes, ceremonial fabrics, and historical gifts, provided Engelgeer with the freedom to reimagine these centuries-old materials into compelling contemporary art pieces.
Exhibition Highlights: Intuitive Objects of Nuance
The exhibition showcases a collection of intuitive, subtle, and nuanced objects thoughtfully displayed throughout the temple's tatami rooms, alcoves, and teahouse. Engelgeer's artistic focus gravitates towards the often-overlooked beauty of elements like faded edges, inner linings, layered fragments, and paper wrappings. Three distinctive hanging pieces, reminiscent of traditional kakejiku scrolls, elegantly weave time-worn hues into gentle geometric forms, delicately framed in cedar wood.
Illuminating History: Folding Screens and Woven Narratives
Two folding byobu screens, adorned with collage-like layers of silk and hemp and delicate yellow lines on blush-pink textiles, capture the interplay of light on the tatami, embodying Engelgeer's subtle yet impactful interventions. Furthermore, textiles are ingeniously re-purposed into rug-like structures, mirroring the paper wrappings that encase the archive's precious contents, symbolizing continuity and transformation.
A Sanctuary for History: Preserving and Reimagining Textiles
Toryo Ito reflects on the project's significance, noting that traditionally, damaged temple textiles were often downsized into utilitarian items. In contrast, 'Utsuroi Hymn' approaches the archive artistically, fostering both preservation and renewal. Ito expresses hope that this endeavor will inspire a wider appreciation for the countless hidden treasures in Kyoto and beyond, awakening them to new life.
Kyoto's Allure: A Wellspring of Creative Energy
For Engelgeer, Japan is an inexhaustible fount of inspiration, evident in her growing portfolio of projects. Her journey from Amsterdam to Kyoto was driven by an intuitive pull, a sense of boundless artistic potential. She describes Kyoto as a city of hidden 'treasures,' abundant 'green,' and a tranquil appreciation for 'time'—elements that deeply resonate with her creative spirit.
The Genesis of 'Utsuroi Hymn': A Shared Vision
The concept for 'Utsuroi Hymn' was born from Engelgeer's initial visit to Ryosokuin, where she was struck by its unique atmosphere and the temple's textile archive. Both she and Ito-san recognized the poignant beauty of these aged, unused textiles, imbued with history. Their shared vision was to revive these materials, allowing them to reclaim their place within the temple in a contemporary context.
Engaging with Heritage: The Archive's Timeless Allure
Engelgeer's first encounter with the archive was a revelation. She meticulously unwrapped each textile, absorbing every detail from front to back, marveling at the rich patterns, vibrant colors, and exquisite craftsmanship. The experience was one of deep engagement and reverence for the past.
Celebrating Imperfection: The Marks of Time
What captivated Engelgeer most were the visible traces of time: the delicate transparency of certain fabrics, the subtle fading of colors, the handwritten notes on the reverse, and areas softened by years of folding and use. These imperfections, rather than being concealed, became central to her artistic vision, celebrated as integral to their beauty and narrative.
An Intuitive Process: Embracing Materiality
Engelgeer's creative process is organic and intuitive, evolving through sustained interaction with her materials. She spent countless hours in the archive, categorizing textiles by texture, color, transparency, and structure. This immersive approach allowed her to develop a profound understanding of each piece's unique characteristics.
Shaping New Forms: Japanese Traditions Reimagined
Inspired by Japanese cultural artifacts such as byobu folding screens and kakejiku hanging scrolls, Engelgeer's works took shape. Drawing on her expertise in weaving, tapestry, and rugs, she created new woven pieces influenced by sakiori, a traditional Japanese technique of transforming old fabrics into new ones. This concept of metamorphosis and continuity through material deeply resonated with her.
A Message for Posterity: Emotion and History Woven In
Engelgeer hopes her creations convey a message that transcends the present, resonating with future generations. Through the interplay of structures, fading colors, and the inherent rhythm of the fabrics, she aims to evoke subtle emotions and historical narratives. Her ultimate aspiration is for this archive to continue its journey into the future through these revitalized artworks.
Kyoto's Influence: A Deeper Creative Path
Living in Kyoto has profoundly enriched Engelgeer's creative practice, introducing new dimensions to her work while maintaining her global connections. She finds inspiration in the immediate surroundings, but in Japan, this is amplified by the profound historical depth embedded within materials and processes.
Bridging Eras: Respecting Origins, Shaping Futures
Engelgeer often engages with centuries-old archives, traditional techniques, and philosophies steeped in cultural memory. Her role, she believes, is to subtly transform, reinterpret, or accentuate existing elements, guiding them towards a contemporary future while honoring their original essence.
Japan's Textile Culture: A Unique Sensitivity
Japan's textile culture stands apart due to its profound reverence for materials, processes, and the passage of time. While Europe also boasts a rich textile heritage, Japan's emphasis on preservation and continuity—viewing textiles not merely as functional or decorative objects, but as vessels of memory, ritual, and care—creates a distinctive environment.
Collaborative Craftsmanship: Innovation with Respect
Engelgeer embraces experimentation, pushing the boundaries of materials and techniques. For her temple projects, she collaborated with craftsmen who were open to unconventional requests, fostering an environment of mutual curiosity. This exchange allowed for the translation of historical materials and traditional craftsmanship into contemporary forms.
The Beauty of Imperfection: A Japanese Aesthetic
In Japan, imperfections, aging, and the signs of repair are often embraced as integral to a textile's beauty, rather than something to conceal. Engelgeer cherishes the opportunity to bridge her European perspective with Japanese craftsmanship, finding this cross-cultural dialogue immensely creatively stimulating.
The Quest for Softness: Organic Forms and Subtle Power
In her creative endeavors, Engelgeer consistently seeks a quality of 'softness.' Even within her often graphic and structured compositions, she strives for organic and natural lines and materials, resisting the urge to overly control or manipulate them.
Future Horizons: Expanding Artistic Expressions
Engelgeer's upcoming projects include 'Tsudoi / Gathering,' an exhibition moving from Karimoku Commons Kyoto to Tokyo in July. She is also preparing 'Echoes of Wa' for Spazio Nobile in Brussels with ceramics master Hosai Matsubayashi, where she will explore chochin lantern-making and bamboo. Her collaboration with Hosoo continues, where she challenges their traditional weaving techniques to discover new artistic possibilities.
Textiles' Enduring Legacy: Shaping Experiences
Ultimately, Engelgeer is driven by the profound 'soft power' of textiles—their unique ability to convey memory, emotion, and history in subtle yet impactful ways. Many of her current works are foundational, and her aspiration is to build upon them, continually exploring how the gentle influence of textiles can shape our perception and experience of spaces.